From jewels that reflect sociopolitical issues to emphasis on certain jewelry-making techniques, Fashion Editor Ashley Davis spotlights where design is heading.
One of the most visually enticing trends perched to take off in 2019 is the use of gemstones in varying colors of the same palette. This Vram ring embodies the look.
From jewelry that reflects the times we live in to emphasis on particular colors or jewelry-making techniques, design is headed in a number of interesting directions.
Here are nine trends to keep an eye on as we enter the final year of the decade.
Brent Neale Medium Cannabis earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with malachite and diamonds ($3,450)
Daniela Villegas Vape Container in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds, pearls, pink tourmalines and pink sapphires (price available upon request)
Jacquie Aiche pavé Sweet Leaf Shaker necklace in 14-karat rose gold with diamonds ($5,500)
Cannabis Culture In 2019, jewelry is about so much more than aesthetics.
Flora and fauna have long been designers’ muses, but a cannabis motif is particularly timely, as recreational marijuana continues to be legalized around the United States and the world.
With word that New York might be the next state in line to decriminalize the substance, expect more trappings of cannabis culture to hit the retail market in the near future, both politically minded and whimsical. And, for once, the typically insular jewelry world is in on the trend.
Hoorsenbuhs Phantom Charm in 18-karat yellow gold with necklace sold separately ($1,300, available at Twist)
Pat Flynn Alchemy Nail Bracelet in iron and 22-karat yellow gold ($5,200, available at Twist)
Shihara Triangle Earring in 18-karat yellow gold (sold as a single earring in five sizes ranging between $390 and $863)
Ariel Gordon Jumbo Signet Ring in sterling silver with black diamond pave border ($860)
Unisex Styles Unisex jewelry is another trend that points to a societal shift. Like gender-neutral clothing, it is indicative of the growing acceptance of gender fluidity and a disregard for convention.
The style is best expressed through bold signet rings or pendant necklaces with a slight industrial feel, often in mixed metals, that give a “borrowed-from-the-boyfriend” feel to an outfit.
Karma El Khalil’s Saturn Ear Cuff in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, worn around the ear ($11,400)
KatKim’s Crescendo Flare Pave Earrings in 18-karat gold with diamonds ($1,390)
Kim Mee Hye’s 18-karat pink gold earring with white diamonds ($5,543)
Here, the Kim Mee Hye ear jacket is pictured on-model.
Alternative Earrings The popularity of studs to be worn in multiple piercings gave way to some larger earring looks last year, like the chandelier and shoulder-dusters.
Next up, look for more innovative statement styles in the vein of Ana Khouri.
Likewise, Kat Kim’s ear pin was pictured on just about every celebrity imaginable in 2018, and Kim Mee Hye is constantly thinking of new and inventive ways women can adorn their ears.
Bleecker & Prince’s Space Hoops in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds ($1,350)
Established West Coast diamond horseshoe ring in 18-karat yellow gold with baguette diamonds ($7,700)
Wwake Small Rhodes necklace in 10-karat yellow gold with natural Australian opal ($995)
Street Style-Inspired While some trends trickle down from fashion runways and luxury brands, others trickle up from the street.
Urban staples like script rings, gold chains and hoop earrings have worked their way into the mainstream, becoming a mainstay for the stylistically savvy far outside the realm of hip-hop.
Marc Alary 18-karat gold, lapis and diamond ring ($3,400, available at Twist)
Marla Aaron’s Lapis Inlay Lock and Charm Necklace in 18-karat gold with lapis lazuli ($30,500)
Retrouvaí Yin Yang ring in 14-karat yellow gold with rhodochrosite and diamond ($3,430)
Inlay All Day The ubiquity of enamel (that trend is still going strong, by the way) has paved the way for inlay, another way to create large swaths of dynamic color through relatively inexpensive stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, mother-of-pearl, malachite and pink opal.
While many gemstone-favoring designers have long incorporated inlay and the aforementioned stones into their work, it’s exciting to watch a newer crop of brands, like Retrouvaí, explore the possibilities the technique has to offer.
Ashley Zhang’s Mirabeau Engagement Ring in 14-karat rose gold and platinum with a 1.65-carat diamond (price available upon request)
Mindi Mond Clips Cuff Bracelet converted from Art Deco dress clips in platinum with diamonds (price available upon request)
Mindi Mond Art Deco Chandelier Earrings in platinum with diamonds and emeralds (price available upon request)
that divides antique and vintage jewelry from new designs is blurring. Barney’s New York now stocks works from Stephanie Windsor Antiques while Fred Leighton sells on Net-a-Porter.
I’ve also seen a movement toward new brands (like Toni + Chloё Goutal and Mindi Mond) sourcing antique pieces, refurbishing them or even reworking them altogether to create pieces that are totally new, breathing modernity into old items from the jewelry box.
Arman Sarkisyan 22-karat gold and sterling silver turquoise earrings with sapphires and diamonds ($16,820)
Nam Cho 18-karat gold blue sapphire ring with chalcedony and diamonds ($8,470)
Vram 18-karat yellow gold ring with tourmaline and blue and green sapphires (price available upon request)
Color Waves An emphasis on color in recent years has resulted in a slew of rainbow, pastel and ombré styles hitting retailer’s showcases.
But I’m finding the most inspiring technicolor designs are coming from designers who have a gift for color, carefully combining shades of the same color family rather than throwing every hue of the rainbow together.
Vram, Arman Sarkisyan and Nam Cho are all designers of the highest caliber who make an art out of stone selection, crafting tonal stories that are undeniably appealing to the eye.
Ark Fine Jewelry Emerald Engraved Manifestation Ring in 18-karat yellow gold with emerald baguettes ($4,725)
Communion by Joy’s Radiant Heart Ring in 14-karat yellow gold with emerald, rose-cut diamond and full-cut diamonds ($2,675)
Noor Fares’ 18-karat yellow gold pendant with ruby, mother-of-pearl and rock crystal base, rhodolite garnet and diamonds ($5,779)
Spiritual Symbols Symbols derived from Eastern spiritual practices are only growing in their appeal. Their best versions, like the ones pictured, work on both a spiritual and intellectual level.
Noor Fares’ excellent Chakra collection debuted last year and is based on the premise of energy centers in the body, touted in Hinduism as well as many new-age spiritual practices. Communion by Joy hand-engraves her rings by channeling energy from a force she says is greater than she is.
As concepts like mindfulness and practices like meditation become more commonplace in western cultures, so do works of art inspired by them. It’s just one more way that fine jewelry can feel meaningful and sentimental to its owners.
Ana Katarina Fine Jewelry Cloud 9 earrings in 18-karat white gold with aquamarine, pink sapphire, diamonds and sustainably farmed Sea of Cortez pearls ($18,770)
Dana Bronfman Moving Drop Pendant in 18-karat recycled yellow gold with responsibly sourced malachite, emerald and diamonds ($5,530)
Yael Sonia for Casa do Rio Tupana ring in 18-karat rose gold with guava quartz, diamonds and sustainably harvested ambé vine straw (price available upon request)
Sustainable Materials Echoing other segments of the industry like mining, in which traceability and sustainability are ever more important, designers continue to experiment with alternative sustainable materials.
Vogue Italia’s American jewelry design showcase has transformed into a call to contemporary designers to broaden their sourcing materials, using non-traditional items like tagua nut as an ivory substitute.
A number of designers like Dana Bronfman, Ana Katarina Fine Jewelry and Yael Sonia aren’t sacrificing style for eco-responsibility; instead they’re letting their imaginations run wild by searching for unexpected resources.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.
