ColumnistsMay 25, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show BuyingBuying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.
AuctionsJul 13, 2021
Jewels from Modernist Designer Art Smith, Sammy Davis Jr. Head to Auction
“California Jewels” will feature six of Smith’s pieces, bought at his Greenwich Village store by a friend and collector.
This pair of sterling silver earclips, designed by Art Smith (unsigned) circa 1950, is estimated to sell for between $1,000 and $1,500 at Bonhams L.A. next week.
Los Angeles—Bonhams L.A.’s upcoming “California Jewels” auction will feature pieces designed by modernist jeweler Art Smith as well as jewelry that once belonged to one of the greatest performers of the 20th century.
Smith (1917–1982) was known for making jewelry influenced by biomorphism—design meant to evoke nature and living organisms—and Surrealism, creating pieces dynamic in both style and form.
He typically worked in brass and copper and sometimes sterling silver, but rarely worked in gold.
Smith trained at Cooper Union in New York City and sold his jewels at his store in Greenwich Village from 1946 to 1979.
His work was featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and museums around the world have also collected Smith’s jewels, including the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, The Newark Museum, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
The Brooklyn Museum’s 2008 exhibition, “From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith,” helped bring interest in the Afro-Cuban artist back to the fore.
Smith is also the namesake for the endowment fund created in 2020 for Black students enrolled in, or looking to enroll in, the Fashion Institute of Technology’s jewelry design program.
See: The Art Smith Pieces Up for Auction
Smith (1917–1982) was known for making jewelry influenced by biomorphism—design meant to evoke nature and living organisms—and Surrealism, creating pieces dynamic in both style and form.
He typically worked in brass and copper and sometimes sterling silver, but rarely worked in gold.
Smith trained at Cooper Union in New York City and sold his jewels at his store in Greenwich Village from 1946 to 1979.
His work was featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and museums around the world have also collected Smith’s jewels, including the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, The Newark Museum, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
The Brooklyn Museum’s 2008 exhibition, “From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith,” helped bring interest in the Afro-Cuban artist back to the fore.
Smith is also the namesake for the endowment fund created in 2020 for Black students enrolled in, or looking to enroll in, the Fashion Institute of Technology’s jewelry design program.
See: The Art Smith Pieces Up for Auction
A gold and opal bead ring designed by Art Smith (estimated sale range, $2,000-$3,000)
A pair of sterling silver earclips (unsigned) ($1,500-$2,000)
A sterling silver and moonstone necklace ($4,000-$6,000)
A sterling silver collar and bangle set ($5,000-$7,000)
A sterling silver cuff bracelet (unsigned) ($1,500-$2,000)
The six Art Smith pieces on the block during the L.A. sale—three of which are unsigned—come from a collector who said her mother became friends with Smith in the late 1940s and bought several pieces at his Greenwich Village store.
“My sister and I grew up hearing stories of Art Smith, who was a larger-than-life character from Greenwich Village. In the late 1940s, my parents lived in New York City and became friends with (him),” she said.
“Mom’s memory of him was that of a tall (to her) openly gay Black man with a shaved head wearing an earring. He made an impression on her, selling his designs from his own shop on Cornelia Street. She explained to us what a rarity this was in the 1940s, and how much courage it took for him to live his life.”
The jewels in the auction are sculptural pieces of art.
There’s a sterling silver and moonstone necklace circa 1950; a sterling silver collar and bangle circa 1950; and a pair of sterling silver ear clips attributed to Smith circa 1950.
There will also be an 18-karat gold and opal bead ring circa 1950 designed by Smith, a sterling silver cuff bracelet circa 1950, and a pair of sterling silver earclips circa 1950.
Bonhams’ upcoming L.A. jewelry auction will also feature jewelry once owned by none other than Sammy Davis Jr.
Born in Harlem to Afro-Cuban vaudeville dancers, Davis spent his life in showbusiness, performing for the first time at the age of 3.
He broke down myriad racial barriers to become a successful comedian, actor, dancer, and singer.
See: Sammy Davis Jr.’s Jewelry
An “SD” monogram set comprised of an 18-karat gold and diamond ring (estimated to sell for between $3,000 and $5,000) and a gold, diamond, and enamel monogram necklace ($6,000-$8,000)
An 18-karat gold, fancy brown diamond and white diamond ring ($7,000-$9,000)
A Bueche Girod 18-karat gold bracelet watch ($4,000-$6,000)
A gold and diamond solitaire ring ($30,000-$40,000)
Sammy Davis Jr. was known, among other things, for his flair and fashion, including always wearing at least one big gold ring.
After starring as the lead in “Mr. Wonderful” on Broadway, Davis became friends with Frank Sinatra, forming the “Rat Pack” with Sinatra, Dean Martin, Joey Bishop, and Peter Lawford, and appearing in movies like the original “Ocean’s 11” (1960) and “Sergeants 3” with them.
The Tony-nominated performer also had a flair for style from the get-go, always seen wearing a suit and donning at least one big gold ring.
In 1967, he was the first Black man to be featured on the cover of GQ, sporting that signature look.
Now, five pieces once in his collection will be up for auction at the Bonhams L.A. sale.
They include an 18-karat bicolor gold, diamond, and enamel monogram ring, and an 18-karat bicolor gold, diamond, and enamel monogram necklace.
The other three of his pieces in the jewelry auction are a Bueche Girod 18-karat gold bracelet watch; a gold and diamond solitaire ring; and an 18-karat gold fancy brown diamond and white diamond ring.
To view all the lots in the July 20 “California Jewels” auction, visit Bonhams.com.
More on Auctions
The Latest
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York ShowThe deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ CollectionThe “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.
Weekly QuizMay 21, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in PerspectiveEverett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
IndependentsMay 21, 2026
Springer’s Jewelers’ New Flagship Will Serve Next-Gen Luxury ShoppersFourth-generation CEO Lilly Mullen wants to emphasize experience, connection, and personalized service.
Events & AwardsMay 21, 2026
JA Announces Nina Pugliese Memorial ScholarshipThe new award, created in partnership with Henne Jewelers, honors the late designer’s legacy through supporting jewelry education.
SourcingMay 21, 2026
Botswana, Angola Join WFDBThe addition of the diamond-producing countries as nation affiliated members broadens the federation’s global representation, WFDB said.
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting SeniorsThe NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEOFormer Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused PandemoniumThe $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Metal ModernWith gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales TruthsIn a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine JewelryIn a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into JoyThe “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ EmeraldThe jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJSThe discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.
SourcingMay 15, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural DiamondsThe jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal ReinvigoratedSponsored by A Diamond Is Forever
SourcingMay 14, 2026
State of Colored Stones: The Spirit of Young American Gemstone CuttersThe next generation of lapidarists are entrepreneurial, engaged online, and see the craft as a means for artistic expression.
